This unrenovated home on Paseo de Montejo is for sale -- a wonderful opportunity to live in a historic mansion. © John McClelland, 2007

Devil of a good time in Merida, Mexico’s white city

It is pushing midnight on a Thursday, but you’d never know it by the looks of Maternity Park in the central historic district of Merida, Mexico. Cafes on the square are jammed, shops bustling, the streets electric with energetic life. In this open-air setting, young sweethearts sip cocktails and entire families gather for late al […]

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Riding the cart to the train, near Ixhuatan, Oaxaca © Tony Burton 1985

Did you know? Mexico has many “Est”raordinary railway places

An earlier column, “Microwaves (with a view)”, examined the scenic delights to be found by following the “Microondas” road signs that puzzle many first-time visitors. That column probably didn’t appeal to any passing historians, but another road-sign abbreviation, “EST”, could easily have been invented just for them. EST stands for Estación. In some contexts, this would […]

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The Battle of Calderon Bridge (Tony Burton)

Did you know? Independence battle map is upside down

The battle in question is the Battle of Calderon Bridge (Batalla del Puente de Calderon), fought just outside Guadalajara in January 1811 as part of Mexico’s fight for Independence. The decisive battle was waged on the morning of Thursday, January 17. Imagine the scene. One side, led by Ignacio Allende, had some eighty thousand ill-equipped […]

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Huazontle with onions and cumin © Daniel Wheeler, 2010

Cumin flavored Mexican huazontle with onions

Cumin flavored Mexican huazontle with onions: Huazontle con cebollas y comino This is a quick and easy side dish, a flavorful accompaniment to simple grilled or roasted meat or poultry. The recipe is adapted from 1,000 Mexican Recipes by Marge Poore. Ingredients 1 pound huazontle bud clusters (the tops, with stems and leaves removed) 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 […]

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Dried shrimp makes a surprising but tasty addition to pico de gallo or fresh salsa mexicana — chopped tomato, onion and serrano chile © Karen Hursh Graber, 2013

Fresh Mexican salsa and dried shrimp appetizer

Fresh Mexican salsa and dried shrimp appetizer: Pico de gallo con camaron seco A lively accompaniment to margaritas or cold beer, this fresh Mexican salsa and dried shrimp appetizer needs to be made as close as possible to serving time. The soaking is crucial here, so that the dried shrimp doesn’t overwhelm the other ingredients. […]

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Scene from "Pasion jarocho" (1949), directed by Carlos Vejar © Producciones Churubusco, Coleccion IMCINE

Whole fish in Mexican green sauce: Pescado en verde

What better recipes to accompany a still from the 1944 film Pasión Jarocho, or “Veracruz Passion?” This classic regional dish od whole fish in Mexican green sauce goes perfectly with the story of lovers in a small Mexican fishing village who seem destined to be kept apart by rumors and jealousy. Will Rosalinda and Hugo ever find […]

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Fresh papaya seeds have a spicy, peppery flavor. © Daniel Wheeler, 2009

Papaya seed salad dressing: Aderezo de semilla de papaya

This tangy dressing is perfect for a salad of mixed greens. The recipe was adapted from one by Vicky Cowell, who writes an interesting and informative food column for the Herald Mexico, Mexico’s English language newspaper. Ingredients: 2 teaspoons sugar ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon dry mustard 4 large scallions, coarsely chopped 1/3 cup white wine vinegar […]

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