Chiles give traditional dishes their deep red color.

Flavors of Mexico’s indigenous kitchens: the Purepecha of Michoacan

The Purepecha Indians throughout Michoacan have developed a tantalizing culinary heritage for centuries that still awakens the senses with its powerful aromas and flavors. In Uruapan, Morelia and other parts of the state, corundas and huchepos, both Purepecha variations of the tamale, eagerly await the opportunity to extinguish the hunger of visitors while imparting a delicious cultural experience. Of […]

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Juana Cano of Cocucho weaves a huancipo of banana leaves. Hot pots are placed on these to cool.

Michoacan’s master craftspeople and their arts

Abdon Punzo Angel’s thick hands tapped minute details into the menacing snout of the copper dragon that sat immobilized in a vise, its body seeming to squirm. Beside him, another shiny dragon writhed from its base, teeth bared, tongue flicking, the scales across its back bristling. A candle holder sat on its head, another on […]

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Colorful crafts fill doorways and sidewalks in the streets of Capula.

Catrina: skeletons take over the art of Capula, Michoacan

Inspired by the caricatures of lithographer Jose Guadalupe Posada, the elegant Catrina has her origins in Day of the Dead celebrations. Capula’s Catrinas arrived only recently. They stand in the doorways of this small quiet colonial town, Catrinas of every size and description decked out in flowered dresses and clenching flowers in their cratered teeth, plumed […]

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Cecilia painstakingly places tiny clay beads along the rib of a cactus-shaped pot.

Jose Maria Alejos Madrigal: Generations of ceramic creativity in San Jose de Gracia, Michoacan

José María Alejos Madrigal cut delicately through the wet clay, removing a thick slice between the two ribs of a lamp with the distinctive, bulging ridges of a cactus. His wife, Cecilia, sat a few feet away, pressing bits of clay into a round mold to imprint them with tiny indentations, then placed them on […]

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Hermelinda Reyes Ascenio works on a guanengo, or traditional blouse, in the patio of her granddaughter's Cocucho, Michoacan home. © Travis Whitehead, 2009

A Michoacan tradition: the needlework artistry of Hermelinda Reyes

Her bold hands coax the thread through white cotton, relinquishing a fragment of the kaleidoscopic hues within her soul to cavort freely across the snowy landscape. The joints of her fingers moving with a tender dexterity, Hermelinda Reyes Ascencio pulls the filament through the fabric surrounding a needlepoint flower, radiant with shades of violet, magenta, […]

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This sneaky snake, having crawled out of the clay at the encouragement of Antonia Cruz Rafael's hands, coils to to strike. The skilled ceramist caries on the artisan traditions of Ocumicho, Michoacan. © Travis Whitehead, 2009

Antonia Cruz Rafael: the ceramics of Ocumicho, Michoacan

They crept and crawled, oozed and slithered from the clay, prickly spiders and sneaky snakes and pesky lizards darting from the dark wet dough, turtles swimming to its surface, bug-eyed devils rising from the mud, all brought to life by the magic touch of Antonia Cruz Rafael. “This is a borregito (sheep), or chivito (goat),” she said in her […]

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Saulo Moreno Hernandez: Hidden art treasures in Tlapujahua, Michoacan:

Born to blush: Hidden art treasures in Tlapujahua, Michoacan

Saulo Moreno Hernandez is a 71 year old sagacious, self-effacing artist from Tlapujahua, in the state of Michoacan. One of his works is featured in the Americas Gallery of the British Museum in London. One of his early ‘calaveritas’, which are imaginative statues of skeletons depicted as alive and in various poses and garb, was bought by […]

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Templo de San Jose is a towered church some blocks northeast of the zocalo.

The beautiful colonial city of Morelia, Michoacan – a gallery

Morelia is the capital of Michoacan. The architecture is colonial style and the momentum of civic intent is to promote and preserve this inheritance. The city is organized around a large central square with fountains, trees, a bandstand, and a spectacularly maintained cathedral. There is also a large city park and a zoo. Published or […]

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