Driving northward along the Tamaulipas coast, the traveler goes from the tropical region of the Veracruz border to the plains of south Texas. A mid-point on the journey is the small town of San Fernando, which has one of the best norteño beef restaurants around. A specialty there is a dish called Fajitas al Sombrero, the “sombrero” being […]
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Foreigners in Mexico often complain about the quality of the potatoes. They are accused of everything from being unbakeable (too hard) or gummy (too soft). These are not baking potatoes, but in a number of Mexican recipes they do work quite well. When I first arrived in Mexico over 20 years ago, I heard a […]
Continue ReadingThe previous column on immigrant cooking in Mexico dealt with the Mennonites of Chihuahua, a group that brought Northern and Eastern European culinary traditions to their new country. A far different cuisine came with the Italians, who largely migrated during the Porfiriato, in the last part of the 19th century. The great wave of migration from Europe during the […]
Continue ReadingThe tomatillo, called tomate verde, was first domesticated in Central Mexico and has been the basis of sauces here since pre-Hispanic times. The cream in the recipe did not exist in Mexico until the Europeans introduced dairy products. Here the two combine beautifully to make a creamy sauce for enchiladas. For sauce: 1 pound tomatillos, husked 2 […]
Continue ReadingAs discussed in last month’s column, wild game played an important culinary role in pre-Hispanic Mexico. Although the Aztecs, Maya and other Mesoamerican people relied on corn as the staple food, along with a wide variety of fruit and vegetables, the carbohydrate-rich diet was supplemented by animal protein. The Aztecs had only five domesticated animals, […]
Continue ReadingIf preparing this with Mexican rice, thoroughly rinse and drain beforehand, to eliminate the excess starch. In the United States, rice is milled differently, so the rinsing is not necessary. Ingredients 1 ½ cups rice 4 large, fresh poblano chiles, roasted, seeded and peeled 2 lettuce leaves 2 sprigs fresh parsley 2 sprigs fresh cilantro […]
Continue ReadingThis can be served as a luncheon dish, as a side dish, or as a vegetarian main course with a green salad and good quality French bread. Ingredients 1 ½ pounds (3 medium) chayotes 2 cups grated Chihuahua or gruyere cheese ¼ cup chopped scallions or green onions salt and pepper to taste ½ cup […]
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At this time of year, when the weather turns cool and the holidays approach, the kitchen seems to beckon more strongly than ever, and those of us who love to cook begin to think of ingredients to incorporate into the season’s festive fare. One of my favorites is the pear, whose iconic shape, subtle sweetness […]
Continue ReadingThis month we’ll continue to take a look at the cooking of the immigrants who contributed to the modern Mexican culinary repertoire. Unlike other groups discussed previously — including the Mennonites of Chihuahua, the Italians of Chipilo and the Lebanese of Puebla — this group undoubtedly did not come willingly. Their arrival was a product […]
Continue ReadingSopaipillas, a classic northern Mexican treat, resemble Southwestern fry bread. They can be served with honey, jam, or fruit sauces, but they should always be served hot. A dusting of powdered sugar would also be good. This recipe is adapted from the Sunset Mexican Cookbook. Ingredients: 4 cups flour 1 ¼ teaspoon salt 3 teaspoons baking powder […]
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