The Christmas season in Mexico is a time filled with delightfully colorful customs, among which one of my personal favorites is the traditional piñata -breaking that highlights most holiday festivities. It’s a hoot to watch the youngsters unleash all that pent-up energy and, while on the one hand there’s a certain element of greed and agression implicit […]
Continue ReadingAs a home-based working mother I recently found myself faced with an annual quandary: how to keep my two restless pre-teens entertained over their summer holiday and simultaneously squeeze some quality time into an already busy agenda. Inspiration came from a handsome coffee table book entitled Espacios del Lago de Chapala * (see note below) featuring dozens of […]
Continue ReadingThe graceful 18th century Parroquia de San Andrés, is not only Ajijic’s chief landmark, but also the hub around which village life revolves. It is the focal point for those important milestones that bind the close-knit Mexican family: baptisms, first communions, confirmations, weddings and funerals. Poised in its multi-tiered campanario are the four bells that mark the […]
Continue ReadingChicho gently took my hands in his, leaned in close and locked in on my eyes with a soul-penetrating gaze. “¡Qué bonitos ojos tienes, güerita!” he whispered huskily. Geez, I wondered to myself, can this be happening? Is this dark-eyed hunk really interested in me? Stringy, mousy-haired me? Hopelessly flabby-thighed me? No speak-o Spanish-o me? “¿Cuándo vamos […]
Continue ReadingSecreted behind a thick adobe wall that runs along Calle Ocampo, Ajijic’s main thoroughfare, lies doña Carlota’s patio. I cherish this tiny, private paradise for to me its warmth and simplicity represent the heart of authentic Mexico. At first glance this seems a strictly utilitarian space. The furnishings are spare–a couple of rickety chairs and […]
Continue ReadingIn 1523, just two years after the Aztec capital of Tenochitlan fell to Hernán Cortés and his Conquistadors, the first Roman Catholic missionaries arrived to begin the religious conquest of Mexico. Fray Bernadino de Sahagún and his fellow Franciscan brothers immediately immersed themselves in the intensive study of indigenous tongues along with the history, customs […]
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Set on the shore of Lake Chapala, the town of Ajijic has become a center of art and culture. The Noches de Ajijic International Festival of Gastronomy and Music highlights some of the region’s best. Seven host restaurants offer special menus prepared for the occasion by outstanding guest chefs. Other festival activities will draw residents […]
Continue ReadingMost mothers in Mexico look forward to May 10 as a day to take it easy and be pampered by family. For Esperanza Perez, proprietress of Ajijic’s most popular flower shop, the date means not only business as usual, but extra work and longer hours. With a loyal clientele that includes many of the town’s […]
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Horse lovers (and anyone else looking for a dose of authentic Mexico) will find September is the perfect month to take in the best of the country’s national equestrian sport — la charrería. It’s especially true for those who find themselves in the general vicinity of Guadalajara. As September gets under way, the city’s 12th annual […]
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Motorists traveling recently along the Guadalajara-Chapala highway may have been puzzled by what looks like the structural foundations of a mighty cathedral rising up near the roadway between the airport and the Cajititlan turn-off. The towering tangle of iron girders is in fact the framework for what will soon turn into a temple for Mexico’s […]
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