Wild Turkey, Meleagris gallopavo Painting by John James Audubon, 1830

The Thanksgiving and Christmas turkey originated in Mexico as did several other festive foods

Strange but true; the bird now so closely associated with many festive meals is a direct descendant of the wild turkeys still found in many parts of Mexico. How is it possible that a Mexican bird acquired the name turkey? Turkey The most likely explanation derives from the fact that the merchants who traded in […]

Continue Reading

The whole enchilada: Thrifty variations on a Mexican classic

After several years of reading cookbooks, newspaper food sections, online culinary magazines and endless food blogs, I realize that the enchilada, an iconic Mexican food, is quite often turned into a completely different dish when it leaves the country. While the basic elements are present, the techniques frequently used north of the border turn enchiladas […]

Continue Reading
Known as pimienta gorda, allspice is grown in Puebla, Mexico © Daniel Wheeler, 2011

Fragrant, flavorful allspice: An essential Mexican seasoning

Recently, when a friend here in Cholula went up to Cuetzalan, in the Sierra of Puebla, I asked him to bring back some allspice, which proliferates there on evergreen trees that produce fat, fragrant berries. An indispensable ingredient in several adobos (the seasoning pastes used on meat, fish and fowl) and on many regional pipians (the seed-based […]

Continue Reading

October in Actopan: Mexico’s National Mole Festival

One of the most popular of Mexico’s many fairs and festivals is the Festival del Mole, the National Mole Fair, held each October in the village of San Pedro Actópan, in the Milpa Alta delegation of the Federal District. This part of the D.F. is unlike any other, a mostly indigenous area with landscapes of rustic beauty which include […]

Continue Reading

Candelaria’s Cookbook

Candelaria is back, with her special logic, folk wisdom and Mexican home-style recipes in the bilingual ‘Las Recetas de Candelaria,’ or ‘Candelaria’s Cookbook.’ Readers of Dane Chandos’ charming ‘Village in the Sun’, about life around Lake Chapala in the ‘40s, will recall Candelaria as the cook who ‘could carry in her head scores and scores of recipes.’ […]

Continue Reading

A traditional Mexican comida: Do-it-yourself

One of the most fascinating aspects of adjusting to life in another country is exploring the cultural landscape of cooking and eating. In Mexico, food is an intrinsic part of festivals, rituals, and personal commemorations, but the daily meals are the focal points around which everyday life revolves. Mealtimes, especially comida — the main meal of […]

Continue Reading