When we lived in Oaxaca, the vegetable stand on the corner sold all the fresh ingredients for squash vine soup together in a bag. In that part of the country, it is a rainy season staple and has been since before the Conquest. The only addition after the Spaniards arrived was the lard in the […]
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Years ago, when we had more endurance for late-night fiestas, part of the next morning’s ritual was a visit to Martita, the “juice lady,” at her stand alongside the Cholula plaza. Her carrot and orange juice blend, with its bright taste and color, was an instant pick-me-up, providing potent boosts of vitamins A, C, and […]
Continue ReadingThis visually appealing dish calls for achiote paste, a classic Yucatan spice paste made from the hard, orange seed of the annatto tree, blended with cumin, cloves and pepper. The market in Merida has a huge section devoted to spice pastes, in colors ranging from bright orange to green to black. The women who sell […]
Continue ReadingThis version of tortilla soup is similar to central Mexico’s Sopa Azteca. We enjoyed its warm and robust flavor after a drive over the cool mountain pass called Mil Cumbres (A Thousand Summits) from Morelia to Zitácuaro. The wooden buildings that characterize the region are called trojes, which is also the local name for small food stalls. Ingredients: 3 […]
Continue ReadingOne of the most interesting aspects of writing about Mexican food is its history, which spans at least five centuries and reflects the cultural and social influences of both the pre-Hispanic Mesoamerican people and those who came later from other continents. While researching Mexican cuisine is rewarding, once in a while the reader comes upon […]
Continue ReadingThe bottle gourd, cucurbita Ficifolia, a rather bland member of the squash family, is common in Oaxacan cuisine, either cooked in stews, used to make a dulce something like candied pumpkin, or in this unique, refreshing beverage. It does not get strained, so the sweet pulp of the squash and pineapple remains in the drink. If chilacayote is unavailable, substitute yellow […]
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Artichoke season has arrived in Central Mexico, the time of year known locally as the temporada de calor, or hot season. By the standards of most other places, it really would not be called “hot,” but at 7000 or so feet, it doesn’t usually get much hotter. And the arrival of this Spring weather means artichoke […]
Continue ReadingThe word mixiotes refers to one of the most delectable dishes within the wide spectrum of Mexican cooking, as well as the wrapping used to contain these steamed individual meat stews. This wrapping, also known as a mixiote, is the outermost layer of a maguey leaf, called a penca. (Maguey is the century plant, a succulent from which the Mexican alcoholic […]
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The year was 1987, and the walk through the Cholula tianguis, or outdoor street market, was our first. In those days, we were unfamiliar with so much of the produce, and our comments that day on the “crazy looking Mexican broccoli” were directed at huazontle, a green having little to do with broccoli except the appearance of similar small […]
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salsa . (Latin salsa, salted.) fem. Composition or mixture of several edible substances, diluted, made to dress or season food. There is no doubt that the above definition was translated from the Royal Spanish Academy Dictionary. Had it originated in Mexico, the definition would have a lot more flavor, color and gusto. Diluted, – a Mexican salsa? […]
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