Spring feeding La Laguna Encantada

Did You Know? An enchanted lake in Veracruz rises every dry season, but falls again during the wet season

Peculiar, but true. There are several lakes named Laguna Encantada (Enchanted Lake) in Mexico, but this one is near Catemaco in the Tuxtlas region of the state of Veracruz. Catemaco is famous for its witches, so perhaps one of them cast a spell on the lake, making it behave perversely, its level changing in opposition […]

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Workers at Mexico's Torrent factory where Te-Amo cigars are produced sort and prepare tobacco leaves. © William B. Kaliher, 2010

Alberto Turrent and Te-Amo: Six generations of Mexican cigars

Mexico’s famous Te-Amo cigar comes from Sihuapan, near Catemaco, Veracruz. The producer — Turrent, Nueva Matacapan Tabacos, S.A. de C.V. — takes its name from the owner, Alberto Turrent, the fifth generation of the cigar manufacturing family. I’m a cigar aficionado myself, and I had the pleasure of talking with Alberto Turrent at length. During […]

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The church faces the plaza in Catemaco, and a bandstand sits beneath palm strees. This town is considered one of the most charming in the Mexican state of Veracruz. © William B. Kaliher, 2010

Tabacalera Alberto: What’s smoking with Mexico’s leading cigar maker?

Driving to Yucatan, I made a wrong turn and wound up in the town of Catemaco. A shady beach drive along a huge lake provided a tranquil setting reminiscent of Hollywood’s 1930s America. I pulled to the curb to enjoy a walk and a cigar. The setting totally captivated me. The delight I discovered from my […]

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Colorful homes in Las Animas, an attractive residential area in the southeast area of Xalapa. © Donald J. MacKay, 2009

Expat living in Mexico: Xalapa vs. Ajijic

Reports written some years ago about Jalapa, (or Xalapa as the locals prefer to spell it) Veracruz in MexConnect caught my eye. These tout the pleasant climate, cultural attractions, the presence of universities, lack of foreigners, and metropolitan character. My wife and I thought it would be a pleasant contrast from Ajijic where we live year-round. In […]

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Fiesta of the Virgin Magdalena in Xico: A village of enchantment in Veraruz

Xico: A village of enchantment in Veracruz

Founded in the year 1313, Xico’s original name was Xico-Chimalco in the Náhuatl (Aztec) language meaning “where there are bee hives of yellow wax.” Located only 20 minutes from Xalapa, Veracruz, it’s a village bound to charms one’s total senses. To get there, you travel southwest through the town of Coatepec, past the ex-hacienda of Zimpizahua, curving […]

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In Catemaco, Veracruz, sorcerer's ceremonies generally blend indigenous rites and chanted prayers calling upon Catholic saints © Ayuntamiento de Catemaco, 2010 Veracruz town hosts the annual National Congress of Sorcerers: Image 1 of 7

Catemaco: Mexico’s cradle of sorcery and witchcraft

This Veracruz town hosts the annual National Congress of Sorcerers. Magic-filled stories abound in Mexico: curanderos claiming to cure illness with herbs and special oils and sorcerers insisting they can bring back straying spouses or cast evil spells on enemies. A Mexican union leader travelling to Africa to partake in a “black magic” ritual sacrificing a lion […]

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